Olay has unveiled Ohm by Olay, a new line of aromatherapy-based body care products to roll out this month. Apart from marking Olay’s first foray into the use of natural ingredients and plant essences, the launch of Ohm marks also another major first for Olay, targeting a younger audience–women aged 18 to 34–than its traditional customer base.The Ohm line includes body wash, a beauty bar, an exfoliating scrub and an eight-hour moisturizing mist in two scents: jasmine and rose and citrus and ginger. Although the holistic personal cleansing line takes its cues from higher-end lines, such as Aveda and Origins, its $4.50 price point is more in line with drug stores.

An infant, born at 35 weeks’ gestation to a woman who sniffed petrol, had a cord blood lead level eight times the accepted limit. Treatment with oral dimercaptosuccinic acid promptly reduced his blood lead levels. To our knowledge, this is the first reported case of congenital lead poisoning secondary to maternal petrol sniffing.We suggest that at-risk pregnancies should be identified, cord blood lead levels tested, and chelation therapy and developmental follow-up offered to affected infants.

We can’t say enough good things about the Aubrey Organics line of products. Our family of testers from baby to adult tried many different products: baby shampoo, hair detangling and shine sprays, sunscreens, body lotions, and face creams — all with astounding results. One adult tester (we won’t say which) found a lifetime favorite in Aubrey’s Calaguala Fern & Cade Tar dandruff shampoo, which worked better than any chemical over-the-counter remedy and smelled better, too! Our hates-combing-out-tangles-more-than-anything 5-year-old is partial to the Primrose Tangle-Go spray, while Mom likes the White Camellia and Jasmine Shine Conditioner Spray for her locks.Aubrey Organics makes so many wonderful products that we can’t list them all here, but other favorites include Men’s Stock Natural Dry Herbal Pine Deodorant Spray, SPF 25 Green Tea Sunblock for children, and Saving Face SPF 10 Natural Sunscreen Protection Spray. Order online using the VBC link to their website

In the world of Fashion, we call it “grooming,” that umbrella term for everything a man does or doesn’t do to make himself hygienically and aesthetically acceptable. Too often, though, this includes harsh deodorants and soaps, aftershaves and mouthwashes that sting, and a lack of concern for protecting the skin. In fact, you rarely see the word “gentle” or “for sensitive skin” on labels of men’s products. But in spite of marketing cues to the contrary, more and more men are evolving their personal care choices based on science and smarts, not just popular images aim studly slogans. And there are untold rewards–not just quick fixes–to be discovered in the new generation or naturally potent (as opposed to synthetically harsh) personal care products for men. Here are just a few. Watch Your Mouth

Funny commercials suggest that if we dutifully swish harsh mouthwashes around and take all that torture like a man, the hard earned payoff will be a healthier, germ-free mouth. But several medical experts warn that alcohol-based mouthwashes can dry out the mouth, contributing to tooth decay.

It is also important to note that several studies, including a 1991 study conducted by the National Cancer Institute, found that mouthwashes containing more than 25 percent alcohol dramatically increased the risk of oral cancers. Seek out mouthwashes and toothpastes that are not merely free of alcohol and other harsh ingredients such as sodium laurel sulfate (which, in toothpaste, can contribute to canker sores), but also those that are crammed with powerfully therapeutic ingredients such as coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10)–proven to heal gum tissue when applied topically–or xylitol and green tea, both proven to kill bacteria in the mouth without irritation or drying it out. No blind faith or self-abuse is required.
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Save Your Own Skin

Synthetic deodorant bar soaps have no benefit to the skin, and strip it of its protective barrier. Try essential-oil-containing natural soaps For much healthier skin. For dry skin, use a soap high in olive or coconut oil. For oily skin, seek extra antibacterial protection with soaps containing neem, tea tree or other naturally purifying oils. Note that terrific smelling essential oils such as sandalwood and lavender make you smell great while also fighting bacteria without leaving the skin dried out and vulnerable the way synthetic antibacterial soaps do.

For your Face, forget soap altogether, and go for a good cleansing milk or cream instead. Choose a shaving cream with nourishing plant oils rather than mineral oil, which blocks the pores. Skip the alcohol-based, synthetic aftershave, and go for either an aloe-based anti-inflammatory and anti-aging skin healing gel if you have acne or inflamed skin, or a natural aftershave with great-smelling essential oils that moisturize while addressing irritations such as ingrown facial hairs (read more about folliculitis in my Q & A section at www.betternutrition.com).

For fighting wrinkles, choose collagen-building and skin-thickening ingredients instead of harsh acids and gritty scrubs, which can irritate and inflame the skin and have uncertain long-term effects. Then stock up on truly natural, broad-spectrum sunscreens containing a protective and anti-inflammatory zinc oxide and titanium dioxide duo, which–unlike synthetic sunscreens–in animal studies have not been found to have estrogenic effects or collect in the body.

Hold On to Your Hair

If you’re currently using or considering prescription or over-the-counter hair-loss drugs, some of which have been linked to erectile dysfunction (such as Propecia) and heart changes (as in the case of minoxidil), consider supplements and topical preparations from your health food store, several of which have been proven in clinical studies to reverse male pattern baldness by blocking the hormone dihydrotestosterone (DHT) without side effects. For more on hair health and hair loss, see my in-depth story “Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow …” at www.betternutrition.com. In the meantime, use a shampoo and a conditioner that purify and nourish the scalp with essential oils and marine extracts while inflicting no pore-clogging petro-chemicals or perfumes on the scalp.

Smell Like a Man, Not a Man-Made Smell

And now for some major news about antiperspirants: The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) will soon require a warning label to be displayed on antiperspirant deodorants containing aluminum. Recently confirmed findings have shown that these deodorants can cause harm to people with kidney problems. The FDA asserts, however, that accumulation of aluminum in individuals with normally functioning kidneys is considered minimal.

Kaye’s health subsequently improved, she says, thanks to a diet of organic food, exercise, a move to the country and a switch to all-natural furnishings and cleaning products.”But as I began to research personal-care products, I realized that there were very few items I could safely use because of their synthetic ingredients, including those found in natural health stores,” says Kaye. “So I formed my own company [Maryland-based Terressentials] with the goal of offering 100 percent natural body-care products that are as dose to all-organic as possible.”

Kaye has joined a few other natural products companies (notably Vermont Soapworks and counterculture icon Dr. Bronner’s) as well as the relatively new Green Products Alliance and the advocacy network Organic Consumers Association (OCA) in vocally criticizing products that are labeled organic but still contain some synthetic ingredients. Executive Director Ronnie Cummins of the OCA has accused some companies of “label fraud” and an “organic scam,” and his group’s “Coming Clean” campaign has run full-page ads in several magazines, including this one. The tension came to a head when the OCA filed a complaint against Avalon Natural Products with the state of California, which has a unique law requiring any personal-care product labeled organic to contain at least 70 percent organic ingredients.
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Heated over Hydrosol

At the epicenter of this controversy is a water-based solution called “hydrosol.” It is made by passing steam through botanical matter and cooling the vapor, and it contains essential oils and other plant material. Hydrosol can be certified organic as an agricultural product under the federal rules for food, and was found to be covered under California’s labeling law in the Avalon case. Hydrosol is the first ingredient in many products, especially shampoos, now offered by such health store mainstays as Avalon, Kiss My Face and Nature’s Gate. It is also known as “authentic from water,” which is not the same as the “from water” some companies make by simple infusion. (To confuse matters even more, hydrosol is sometimes identified simply as “from water” on packaging.)

“While hydrosols have been used in aromatherapy for hundreds of years, they did not exist in body-care formulations until companies started adding them to largely existing formulas specifically so they could call them organic,” says Cummins. The OCA claims hydrosols are mostly water and are not active ingredients in most products. But Tim Schaeffer, brand manager of Avalon, replies, “That is not why we started using hydrosol. We chose it because we wanted a way to more fully harvest the benefits of lavender. Far from being ‘mostly water’, properly made hydrosol gives you an exact representation of what’s inside the plant, and it has therapemic benefits for the skin.”

Schaeffer adds that the use of hydrosol supports organic agriculture, a claim that is dismissed by Kaye, who says the unregulated material can be made as dilute as anyone wants, meaning very little organic ingredients are actually needed. Kaye and the OCA fear a co-opting of hydrosol by mainstream industry, and a broad collapse of trust in anything organic. Schaeffer insists his company uses only full-strength, certified hydrosol, which he points out is actually rather expensive.

Industry observers say hydrosol itself isn’t really the issue. “Many products labeled 70 percent organic because of hydrosol actually contain the same synthetic cleansers, conditioners and preservatives found in mainstream brands,” argues Kaye. But Schaeffer disagrees. “None of our products include any synthetic dyes or fragrances, and they are much more natural than conventional cosmetics,” he says. Avalon claims to use as natural ingredients as possible, and man-made components are sourced directly from vegetables, not petroleum.

To Kaye, taking coconut oil and processing it into molecules not directly found in nature shouldn’t be considered an “organic” procedure. After all, she argues, the popular Dr. Bronner’s soap is made out of entirely natural, simple ingredients. Schaeffer says the issue is more complex with shampoos and a few other products, such as foaming face creams, because the active ingredients. the vast majority of Americans expect haven’t been found in nature.

The debate boils down to a growing philosophical rift in the industry. Kaye insists synthetic chemicals do not belong on our bodies or in the environment. “Because surfactants don’t exist in nature, unlike, say, soap, no living cells have evolved to deal with them,” she argues. Cummins adds, “Until more natural formulations can be found, many of us will choose to wash our hair with vinegar.” Terressentials’ shampoo doesn’t lather, even though it cleans perfectly wel

Clinique Body Sloughing Cream

Its fine, nonabrasive grains are gentle on the skin, with a hint of salicylic acid to smooth rough spots. $15.50, 7.5 oz; at Clinique counters nationwide

BODY MOISTURIZERS

Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Formula With Vitamin E Original Jar

Everyday moisturizer This formula deserves to be in the body-care hall of fame for the way it keeps our skin ash-free all day long. $6.31, 7.25 oz; (877) PALMERS

Neutrogena Sesame Body Oil

Light Moisturizer You’ll love the way this moisture-rich oil sinks into your skin. Best of all, it does not feel greasy, so you can wear it to bed. $9.90, 8.5 oz; at d Eucerin Dry Skin Therapy Plus Creme

Heavy-duty moisturizer Dermatologists like it because it combats excessive dryness. We love it because it keeps heels, elbows and knees ash-free. $7.50, 4 oz; at drugstores nationwide

Body Shop Mango Body Butter

Hot-date moisturizer This one’s scrumptious mango scent–with shea butter, mango kernel oil and sweet almond oil–is our fave. $15, 6.2 oz; (800) BODYSHOP.

SHAVING AIDS

Gillette for Women Venus Razor and Gillette Satin Care Shave Gels

The beauty of this razor is that it doesn’t get dull after only a few shaves. The shave gels, which promise to keep you nick-free, really live up to their billing. $7.49 for razor, storage compact and additional cartridge. Shave gel, $2.99, 7 oz; at drugstores nationwide
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FEET

Peter Thomas Roth AHA Exfoliating Foot Cream

Whenever our feet feel a little rough around the edges, we slather on this miracle worker and the problem is solved. $40, 4 oz; (800) PTR-SKIN

Diamancel Tough Buffer #11

This buffer is no joke. It uses diamond dust to slough off dead skin, leaving our feet feeling as good as new. $48; (888) 243-8825

BEAUTY 411 DIRECTORY

Best Apothecaries and Specialty Stores

* African-American Super Store ([773] 994-5200): Industry insiders flock to this little-known Black-owned spot in Chicago for everything from professional beauty supplies to bathroom-cabinet staples.

* Apothia ([877] APOTHIA): Some of the richest scents in California are found at the two Apothia boutiques in Los Angeles: Diptyque candles, Kiehl’s bath and body treats, and an extensive fragrance selection including Apothia’s signature scent. These items, coupled with a knowledgeable and friendly staff, make shopping at Apothia a scent-sational experience.

* Colonial Drugs ([617] 864-2222): Known as the people with “absolutely no common scents,” this Cambridge, Massachusetts, beauty haven, located in the heart of Harvard Square, features more than 1,000 fragrances.rugstores nationwide

But the new ruling contradicts policies that have been in effect since the organic label was created three years ago, leaving consumers confused and companies that spent millions to meet USDA standards with little to show for their investment.

Dr Bronner’s Magic Soaps, for example, spent approximately $6 million to develop chemical-free processes, find ingredients, secure suppliers and comply with USDA regulations. “We’ve gone to great expense to earn the right to bear the label,” says David Bronner, president of Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps. “We’ve even worked with poor peppermint farmers in India, helping them go organic to supply us.”

In June, Bronner and the 500,000-member Organic Consumers Association (OCA) sued the USDA, hoping to force the department to let the labels stay. (Because of the lawsuit, the USDA won’t comment.)
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The plaintiffs expect to win on technicalities alone. “There are proper procedures for making decisions like this, and the USDA ignored them,” says Ronnie Cummins, the OCA’s executive director. “Agencies must allow a period of public comment so consumers can say what they think of the ruling.”

Cummins is confident about the bigger issues too. “Consumers will get to tell the USDA that the organics program should apply to body care products, because olive oil is the same whether it’s used for cooking or in a skin cream,” he says.

“This will be a confusing time for shoppers,” says Urvashi Rangan, PhD, director of the Consumer Union’s eco-labeling project (eco-labels.org), which tracks ingredients in body care products. “People who’ve relied on the label will just have to become better informed about the ingredients in products they use–especially the nonorganic ingredients. That will be the case until meaningful, consistent standards are developed, perhaps by the FDA and the USDA working together.”

“Ultimately it comes down to consumer demand,” Cummins says. “When we win our suit, consumers will get to make their voices heard. At that point, it’s up to them.”

Whew! When we went online and asked readers to toss us their biggest body questions, we were bombarded. Not surprisingly, a lot of girls have worries about their bodies–mostly about how much teens should weigh, what they should eat, how they ought to look. We don’t blame girls for being confused. There are lots of conflicting body messages floating around out there. Here’s the good news: Armed with up-to-date info, you can feel a lot more empowered inside and out. We’ve put together this mini-handbook to help you understand, take care of and appreciate that awesome bod of yours. Here’s the naked truth on being body smart….

WHAT IS IT?

Don’t be scared! Fat isn’t a bad, evil substance. It’s your body’s main source of energy and you must have it to live, explains Martica Heaner, exercise physiologist and co-author of Cross-Training for Dummies. We all store fat (er, body fuel) in deposits around our tummies, thighs and other places. When you need energy, that’s, what you automatically use! And it takes energy to do anything from running to IMing. Not surprisingly, some people store more fat than others–usually because they take in more fuel than their bodies can use.

Now, about the fat we eat…It’s a necessary nutrient, just like protein, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. Your body needs fat in foods to help you absorb vitamins A, D, E and K–and, well, to make stuff taste yummy!
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HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOU’RE FAT?

It’s too bad everyone worries so much about weight. When we asked CL readers about body concerns, their most frequent questions were along the lines of, “Am I fat?”

Our advice is to worry more about health than appearance. After all, people who are slightly overweight live longer than skinny folks. The best way to get an idea of your overall health? Calculate your Body Mass Index, a ratio of height to weight. Do this by dividing your weight (in pounds) by your height (in inches) squared. Multiply the total by 705, or go to www.halls.md/body-mass-index/bmi.htm and’ use the calculator. A healthy BMI is between 19 and 22.

If it’s above 25, you’re at risk for childhood diabetes, heart disease and certain cancers. A lower BMI puts you at risk for other probs, like anemia. Some experts warn that BMI is an outdated way to figure out if you’re healthy, so just use it to get an idea of where you stand. For the most accurate evaluation, see your doctor.

BUT MAYBE I JUST HAYEDABY FAT! HOW DO I KNOW?

So what if your cheeks are chubby? They’ve always been! There’s no need’ to worry about a, weight problem unless you’ve very suddenly changed sizes., If you’re the same as always, it’s probably plain old genetic ,baby fat. Usually, you can tell the difference by, the way your clothes fit. Is the waist of your jeans tighter and righter?

If you’re growing out (signaling a weight problem) instead of up (which is normal), you could be on your way to being overweight. Also, if your BMI is over 28, it’s probably not baby fat. Ask your doctor for tips on shedding pounds and staying healthy.

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BEING FAT…AND OBESE?

Overweight simply means you weigh more than other girls your age and build. Obese means you carry too much fat, are about 20 percent above your ideal weight and have a BMI over 30. Nearly one in five kids is considered obese, but this term often sets off negative body image signals. Be aware of the definitions, but don’t let them weigh you down!

No rock-solid abs? No worries!

Blame it on Britney. She’s lucky as far as having fab abs. But the truth is, most of us have poochy (like Pink!) little bellies no matter what we do, “Whether you’re thin or overweight, everyone stores fat in different places,” Martica explains. “And where you store yours–your belly, thighs, breasts or butt–is pretty much determined by genetics.” So if a thick middle runs in the family, you can do crunches til the cows come home, and your body will still move the fat to that exact same spot. Meanwhile, there are those blessed few females who have naturally non-existent rummies. But before you gel all jealous, know that they have fat stores elsewhere, like on their hips or butts. The key to staying lean all over is to get enough exercise and eat healthfully. So belly up to your natural body type, and learn to love it as is.

The Skinny on skinny

A small percentage of girls are naturally rail thin (thanks, Mom and Dad). Sadly, these gals beat up on their bodies, too. They worry that they’re too bony, awkward, lanky or boyish. They also field comments from people wondering how they stay so thin or falsely accusing them of having eating disorders.

Every winner offers broad-spectrum protection, meaning it blocks UVA and UVB rays, which is crucial, according to Jeanine Downie, M.D., Shape editorial adviser and Montclair, N.J.-based dermatologist. “Your sunscreen must be broad-spectrum,” she explains, “in order to effectively combat both short-term sun damage (like sunburn) and long-term damage (like premature aging and of course, skin cancer).”

BEST FOR total protection

Neutrogena Age Shield Sunblock SPF 45 ($9.49; at drugstores) is lightweight, oil-free and noncomedogenic, so it won’t clog your pores. It has Neutrogena’s brand-new patented Helioplex technology, which helps to extend the length of time you can be outside and protected from UVA rays.

BEST FOR easily-forgotten spots
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True Blue Spa Strings Attached SPF 40 Sunblock Stick ($10; bathandbodyworks.com) is a sweat-resistant balm that’s perfect for runners, surfers or anyone on the go. The slim stick is sized for small areas like your lips, nose and earlobes, and it’s attached to a cord, so it’s never out of reach.

BEST FOR you and baby

Aveeno Continuous Protection Sunblock Lotion SPF 45 for Baby ($9; at drugstores) is fragrance-free and formulated with skin-soothing oatmeal, making it gentle enough for your little one’s (or your) delicate skin. It also packs hydrating glycerin, a gentle humectant, to prevent moisture loss.

BEST FOR protecting eyes

Clarins Sun Wrinkle Control Eye Contour Care SPF 30 ($24.50; nordstrombeauty.com) gently protects your eye area (the thinnest skin and first to show fine lines). The no-tear formula is hydrating but not heavy, thanks to lightweight olive extract, an antioxidant that helps shield skin from environmental damage.

BEST FOR blemish-prone complexions

Almay Sun Protector SPF 30 for Face ($9; at drugstores) is noncomedogenic, so it won’t clog pores, and it’s made with the gentle sunblocker zinc oxide. We especially like the refreshing scent, a blend of calming aloe and cucumber extract.

BEST FOR on the go

Avene Tinted Compact SPF 50 ($16; aveneusa.com) contains the sunblocks titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (which won’t irritate sensitive skin). The solid cream has SPF 50 and comes in two sheer shades: beige (for lighter skin tones) and honey (for darker complexions).

BEST FOR working out

Hawaiian Tropic Ozone Sport Lotion SPF 30+ ($7.50; at drugstores) offers protection via the sunscreen avobenzone (also called Parsol 1789), which helps boost its sweat-resistant qualities. Plus it comes with a little clip that easily attaches to your beach bag or backpack.

BEST FOR underneath makeup

Clinique CX Protective Base SPF40 ($45; clinique.com) glides onto skin smoothly–and feels almost nonexistent; it’s equally wearable worn solo or under makeup. The lightweight cream contains trehalose, a plant sugar that helps regulate moisture levels in skin cells.

BEST FOR face & body

Lancome Soleil Ultra SPF 50 Face and Body Lotion ($32.50; lancome.com) is a total multitasker, offering sun-protection and hydrating benefits for face and body. This broad-spectrum lotion contains Lancome’s exclusive technology called Collasome, a mix of humectants that keep your skin soft all over. It also packs the antioxidant vitamin E to help fend off environmental damage as well as anti-inflammatory rose extract to calm sun-stressed skin.

WIN! Log on to shape.com/spf to win one of these sunscreen products.

RELATED ARTICLE: WHAT’S YOUR SUNSCREEN LABEL TELLING YOU? FIND OUT:

* SPF technically indicates how many times longer you can stay in the sun before skin starts to burn. For example, SPF 15 allows you to stay in the sun 15 times longer than you could without it. Dermatologists recommend SPF 30 applied generously for maximum effect.

* AVOBENZONE (AKA PARSOL 1789) and OXYBENZONE are chemical sunscreens that interact with skin to absorb UVA and UVB rather than block them. Because they bind to proteins in the skin’s top layer, they’re more water-resistant and lighter than physical blocks.

* ZINC OXIDE and TITANIUM DIOXIDE are physical sunblocks. They are minerals that work by creating a blanketlike reflective barrier between your skin and the sun’s UVA and UVB rays. They’re also gentler for sensitive skin than chemical sunscreens, but may not last as long in water.

* WATER RESISTANT/SWEAT RESISTANT The terms are interchangeable, and either indicates that a formula will stay on longer when in contact with water (or perspiration) than a product without the claim. That said, you still need to reapply after swimming; otherwise, reapply every two hours

IT’S NO COINCIDENCE that Mediterranean women (ahem, Sophia Loren) are known for their wonderful skin. Their beauty secret might be two little botanicals that have permeated the culture for centuries: figs and olives. “Both fruits are rich in antioxidants, which fight the damaging effects of the sun and environment,” says Jeannette Graf, M.D., a dermatologist in Great Neck, N.Y. “Olive oil is also rich in fatty acids that make excellent moisturizers.”

Honored since ancient times for their healing properties, figs and olives are making a comeback in modern skin care. Here are a few of the best products to bring home their benefits.

Apivita Express Deep Face Scrub With Olive uses crushed olive seeds to gently remove dead skin, and comes with hydrating Aqua Plus Face Mask With Cucumber ($25; beauty habit.com). Red Flower Hammam Tangerine Fig Butter Creme ($52; beautyhabit.com) is a luxurious cream that contains fig extract along with super-moisturising shea butter.

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figgy faves

FIGS ARE TREASURED for their warm, unique fragrance, which is often used to grace soaps and candles (such as Archipelago Botanicals luscious Linden Wood & Fig votive, $9; spashoppe.com). But even more valued are the emollients that extracting oil from the seed yields. “We incorporated fig oil into our new line because of the natural humectants it contains,” says Paul D. Seplowitz, vice president of product development for Coty, makers of The Healing Garden Organics. Antioxidants, moisturizers, and a lovely scent–what’s not to like?

Grassroots Seeds of Perfection Invigorating Body Exfoliator ($12.50; grassrootslife.com) uses fig seeds to gently exfoliate as it delivers a light fruit fragrance with musk understones. The Healing Garden Organics Fig & Lavender Body Mist ($8; healing garden.com) recruits hydrating fig leaf extract and cooling aloe extract to soothe irritated or overheated skin. Body Systems Mediterranean Fig & Vanilla Sugar Scrub ($12.50; body-systems.net) used fig extract to make sloughing scaly skin a pleasantly fragrant and hydrating experience.

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outstanding olives

OLIVE TREES CAN LIVE for up to 1,000 years, which may well explain the fruit’s long-standing reputation as an elixir of youth. Chock-full of antioxidant polyphenols and extremely moisturizing, olive oil is an excellent beauty treatment on its own. Massage it into nails, cuticles, elbows, or anywhere else you need extra softening. For a more sophisticated (and less messy) solution, look for beauty products that contain olive extract.